The attic is the largest opening between your heated house and the weather, and it is where most of the heat you pay for goes. That is why the attic is almost always the first thing a contractor looks at, no matter which room prompted the call. Ten minutes up there usually explains a lot about how the rest of the house behaves.
Attic work is rarely just adding material. A contractor should be looking at how deep the existing coverage is, whether it reaches the outer edges, whether the soffit vents are buried, and whether the gaps between the ceiling and the attic have ever been sealed. Adding a fresh layer over unresolved versions of those problems is how people end up disappointed with a brand new attic.
Attic pricing tracks a handful of things. Square footage is the obvious one. After that: how much headroom the crew has to work in, how easy the attic is to enter and move around, whether old material is coming out first, how much air sealing the ceiling plane needs, and which material you and the contractor settle on. Contamination changes everything, because removal, cleaning, and disposal become their own scope. Ask for the sealing to be written separately from the insulation on any bid, so you can compare two contractors on the same terms instead of on one number.
Not always. If the existing material is dry, clean, and free of rodent activity, adding to it is often reasonable. If it is wet, stained, contaminated, or full of nesting, covering it hides a problem you will meet again. A contractor should tell you which case you are in and why, rather than defaulting to removal.
It may help, and it may not be the main cause. Upstairs heat in summer also comes from duct runs sitting in a hot attic, a system doing most of its work downstairs, and sun on west-facing rooms. Attic work is worth doing on its own merits, but ask what else is contributing before you expect it to solve everything.
Yes, and it happens often. Blown material can drift into the soffit vents at the eaves, especially when depth is increased without baffles in place. The attic needs both intake and exhaust airflow to work properly, so ask any contractor how they plan to keep those vents clear before they add depth.
Age by itself is not the issue. What matters is condition and coverage: whether it has settled, whether it still reaches the edges, whether anything has disturbed it, and whether the ceiling below it was ever sealed. Plenty of old material is still doing work, and plenty of newer material was installed straight over unsealed gaps.
Insulation slows heat moving through materials. It does not stop air moving through gaps. Sealing the openings between your living space and the attic is a separate job, and doing it after the insulation goes down is far harder.
Learn more →The band where your floor framing meets the foundation gets skipped more often than any other part of the house. If your floors never feel warm and the furnace seems fine, this is worth having somebody crawl under and look at.
Learn more →Walls are closed assemblies, so the question is how a contractor gets material into them and whether the cavity can take it. Blown-in, batt, and foam each suit different framing, and foam is not automatically the better one.
Learn more →Sometimes the old material has to come out first. Rodent damage, water staining from a roof leak, and smoke contamination are all reasons adding new insulation on top would bury a problem instead of solving it.
Learn more →Cold rooms, drafts, ice at the eaves, or an attic you have never been in. Any of it is a place to start.